Retinol is Not Scary: How-To Guide for Beginners

Navigating the confusing world that is retinol is enough to make anyone throw in the hypothetical skincare towel. I totally agree that it’s a good thing that products have become much more available. Unfortunately, though, this comes with a plethora of confusing labels. Never fear! I have come to you with this retinol for beginners guide to hopefully save the day and your skin.

Quick Overview and How it Works on the Skin

“Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that work by binding to retinoic acid receptors, which then can act as transcription factors and affect gene expression. This makes them very powerful and able to produce significant changes in the skin.”

NYC Dermatologst Hadley King- source

The umbrella term of retinoids, all vitamin A derivatives, covers a lot of different products at various strengths and efficacy. Overall, vitamin A is the “first vitamin approved by the FDA as an anti-wrinkle agent that changes the appearance of the skin surface and has anti-aging effects” (source).

All vitamin A derivatives must convert to retinoic acid to work for the skin. The strongest form of Vitamin A includes prescripion strength retinoids that are pure retinoic acid. These do not need to convert to anything, therefore they are the most potent options. Retinol and retinol esters need to take a few steps before being converted to retinoic acid, which reduces that potency of these ingredients. Refer to the table above for this process, and the table below for breakdown of the different Vitamin A Derivatives.

If you are dealing with severe acne conditions or other skin concerns, schedule an appointment with a dermatologist if you think a prescription option may be right for you.

Retinol Benefits

Retinoids are widely used in skincare due to its plethora of amazing benefits including anti-aging and improving appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improving collagen and elastin production, improving cystic and other forms of acne, reducing the appearance of scarring, reducing the visibility of pores, balancing oily skin, and brightening and smoothing the overall complexion. OTC and prescription retinols are commonly used in teenagers for acne treatments due to its ability to resurface the skin and balance oil production.

*Prescription retinoid and OTC retinol products are not suggested for those who are pregnant.

When to Start Using Retinol

Retinol comes in various percentages and compositions such as cleansers, serums, moisturizers, and even oils! Choosing which is right for you is definitely the most confusing aspect of starting retinol.

There is not perfect way to do skincare, but typically the earlier you start with preventative aging the better. So, if you are in your 20’s or older, I suggest starting with a beginner retinol and working your way up. It is never too late to start incorporating retinol for healthier skin!

Gentle Options and How to Incorporate Retinol

One issue that comes to mind in connection with retinol involves skin irritation, dryness and flakiness. Retinol is not actually exfoliating the skin, but instead just increasing the cell turnover rate. Keep in mind that this side effect depends on: current routine, skin type, sensitivity and other skin conditions, consistency, and proper use! Most importantly, you shouldn’t start with a super potent, strong formula unless advised by a doctor. Retinol should be a slow process, where you work your tolerance up and can hopefully use it several times a week or every night depending on your skin goals!

Check out this video of the popular Dr. Shah and Dr. Maxfield as they discuss incorporating retinol into your routine for beginners!

Here are my great retinol options for first time users:

Best Retinol for Beginners with Dry and Sensitive Skin Types

$ Cerave Resurfacing Retinol Serum, this creamy serum utilizes encapsulated retinol, making it more gentle but still potent. This can work especially well for uneven skin tone, dark spots, and to reduce the appearance of post-acne marks.

$$$ First Aid Beauty Skin Lab Retinol Serum 0.25% Pure Concentrate, this serum includes hydrating avocado oil, plumping hyaluronic acid and soothing ceramides to keep the skin calm when incorporating a new retinol into your routine.

$$ Paula’s Choice CBD Oil + Retinol, I love the option of a retinol oil for those with dry skin. This one includes one of my all time favorite ingredients: CBD! It also has meadowfoam and squalane to give a visible glow right after use. It is a 98% natural option for those of you who prefer it.

Check out my blog on CBD in Skincare for more information about this topic.

$$ Paula’s Choice RESIST Barrier Repair Moisturizer, another great way to begin incorporating retinol if you have dry skin is to try it in combination with a moisturizer. This is a very low concentration, but will still provide great benefits to the skin! I especially recommend this for improving signs of aging.

Best Retinol for Beginners with Combo and Oily Skin Types

$ Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1% Acne Treatment, this is the first OTC treatment that includes a prescription strength retinoid making it super potent and effective for keeping the pores clear. You will most likely experience a purging phase from this as it works to even the skin and reduce the amount of breakouts.

$$ La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% Topical Acne Treatment, another adapalene option for clearing the skin and reducing different types of breakouts. Again, it is a stronger option which could cause irritation. Start slow!

$$ Versed Press Restart Gentle Retinol Serum, this option incorporates retinol and plant derived Bakuchiol. It works to improve fine lines and wrinkles and boost collagen production within a nice, creamy formulation.

Learn more about Bakuchiol from an awesome Dermatologist Dr. Alexis Stevens in her video!

$$$ Alpha-H Vitamin A Serum, oil based serum to help balance oil production while delivering 0.5% retinol to the skin. Also uses squalane, jojoba and sweet almond oil to melt into the skin as your last step or before moisturizer at nighttime.

Best Retinol for Beginners with Aging Skin

$ The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% in Squalane, this oil serum is reliable and straightforward, a hallmark of The Ordinary products. This is a great way to start a retinol as a beginner and add hydration to dull skin.

$ Naturium Retinol Complex Serum, includes plant derived bakuchiol and vitamin E to deliver a potent formula but gentle enough for retinol beginners! This is great for refining the skin texture and improving various signs of aging.

$$ Stratia Night Shift, a great way to not only reap the benefits of retinol but also the other powerful ingredients that are typically included in a cream formulation is by choosing a moisturizer option. This moisturizer has 0.15% retinol, ceramides, cica, marula seed oil, and sunflower seed oil!

$$ Alastin Skincare Renewal Retinol, Available in a 0.25 or 0.5 concentration to diminish fine lines and wrinkles, smooth skin and boost collagen production to firm the skin. I love that this includes co-enzyme Q10 which is a powerful antioxidant that pairs phenomenally with retinol to improve appearance of aging in the skin.

Check out this video by another one of my favorite Dermatologists Dr. Dray discuss some of her favorite retinols for hyperpigmentation and anti-aging.

Example of Retinol Routine

There are many differing opinions on using retinol in the morning or at night. As always, follow your dermatologist’s instructions first. If using an OTC option, I personally suggest starting at night.

Hopefully, this guide gave you the confidence you need to kickstart that retinol routine! Remember to start slow and work your way up. You will begin to notice small changes within the first month, but it can take up to 3 months before any significant changes occur.

If you need help on starting your daily routine, checkout my skincare for beginners masterclass here. Thanks so much for reading!